Friday, 7 August 2015

“Into the heart of the freshwater mangroves…”

26th April, 2015, will be considered a memorable day, as one of our group members puts in, because that was the first time we went out together as a team to explore the wilderness. Being research scholars and Masters Students of Tezpur University, weekend seems to be the perfect time for us to involve in daylong activities. Thus, one fine sunny morning we set out for a trek inside Laokhowa Wildlife Sanctuary, which is a part of the world-famous Kaziranga Tiger Reserve landscape. A one hour ride from the university campus, this sanctuary is home to a diverse species of flora and fauna, some even with threatened status as per IUCN guidelines. This sanctuary is also the abode of the freshwater mangrove species, Barringtonia acutangula, locally called “Hijal”.

Photo credit: Debabrata Phukon
The freshwater mangrove (Barringtonia acutangula) forest of Laokhowa WLS.

The trek from the Beat Office of the sanctuary to the mangrove forest took us an hour, while observing and photographing the moist deciduous forest and grassland that falls on the way. We observed a diverse world of invertebrates including a huge millipede and many different species of lepidopterans and odonates. At the start of our trek we observed a Changeable hawk eagle (Nisaetus cirrhatus) perching on the tree top, its eyes scanning the area for prey. While it was busy with its hunting spree, we managed to get some photos of this feared killing machine, as it is considered in the avian world. A few steps ahead, we came upon a pair of Indian Roller (Coracias benghalensis) perched a few meters above us displaying courtship behaviour in full vigour. With a variety of interest, our team was looking both up, for birds, as well as searching the ground for some probable herpetofauna that might find comfort in our company and give us some good clicks for the day.

       Photo credit: Debabrata Phukon
The busy Indian Roller pair displaying courtship behaviour.

The grassland of Laokhowa offered us to observe many species of grass-dwelling birds like Striated Grassbirds, Paddyfield Pipits, and Chestnut Munia. Just at the end of our grassland trail we came upon an anti-poaching camp where we were greeted by smiling faces who offered us tea and drinking water. These frontline staff of the forest department is the real force behind protecting the rich biodiversity of our protected areas. While chatting with them we came to know that a herd of wild buffaloes have been spotted few minutes back near the grass patches of the camp. So, we set out in search of these fearsome mega-herbivores with careful steps and minimal sound, as these beasts have a sharp hearing sense. Few meters ahead of us a stream rolled down the undulating surface of the grassland and ahead of it we could see the grass blades making frequent movements. On reaching a higher ground we could now see a beautiful herd of the reported wild buffaloes in the midst of the lush green Saccharum sp.

  Photo credit: Debabrata Phukon
The wild buffalo herd grazing peacefully in the grassland of Laokhowa.

While observing these mega beasts for few minutes, I could feel a sense of immense pleasure to realize that Nature has nurtured life in such beauty and grace. Satisfied with the unexpected encounter, we started on with our trek. The grassland slowly gave way to the most important attraction of the sanctuary, the freshwater mangroves. The very first sight of these mangrove species reminded me of one of my trips to the Bhitarkanika mangrove forests in Orissa, but this one lacked the spiny-looking pneumatophores that protrude out in case of the latter. During the monsoons, these freshwater mangrove trees (Barringtonia acutangula) get submerged in flood waters more than half of their length. Forest staff patrol inside these forests using small boats during the flood season and would often encounter snakes hanging from the branches, a refuge from the harsh waters. When we were promised by our guide that we would be taken for a boat ride through these forests in the next flood season, I could see lot of smile pouring out from the sweat-drenched faces. Entering these thick canopied forests, our sense of sight soon took to the ground, observing for any movements. Soon enough, two of our expert herp trackers (as I often called them) ran after some movements on the forest floor litter and came up with a skink, Eutropis sp. This little fellow was a true beauty with golden on the dorsal part of the body and orange colour running down its laterals.

                                                                                                           
                                                                                                                                                               Photo credit: Debabrata Phukon
The golden and orange beauty Eutropis sp. skink.

We managed to get some good shots, enough to do some identification work, which most of the herp lovers are interested in. But still, we felt that something was missing, something which we felt would made our day. Keeping our fingers crossed, we started off again, stopping at each possible movement on the ground. Though our group maintained silence, which should be followed when someone enters the forest and communication should only be made through some whistle or signals, still I could hear the discussion on snakes from my group mates at the back. A whistle from one of our mates few meters ahead made the whole group stop at once. It’s a cobra, a Monocled Cobra (Naja kaouthia) it was!

Photo credit: Debabrata Phukon
The enigmatic Monocled Cobra (Naja kaouthia).

The serpent was probably lying beneath the shade of a Hijal and cooling off when it raised its hood on hearing our footsteps. The whole scene took a dramatic turn and a rush of adrenaline was felt through my veins. The enigmatic hood and the hissing from this super beast bring in a terrific feeling to anyone who comes face to face with it. The whole scene of encountering the cobra, followed by photo sessions and the farewell scene when the snake disappeared into the thickets took about 10 minutes, but the very sight of it stayed with us till the end of the trek and followed few more days. Each one of our group cherished this sighting as the best one for the day. After few hundred steps through the forests, we came back to where we started, the Forest Beat Office, which meant that our daylong expedition ended.

“Into the heart of the freshwater mangroves we went,
                                         Into the heart of the one less known,
                                        More we explored, more we knew
                                        Beauty of Nature, maybe a few”


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